Should you French your Frenchie? Kiss your keeshond? Smooch your pooch? People have strong opinions either way. Here’s what to know about canine kisses

By Kim Campbell Thornton

Andrews McMeel Syndication

Many people love getting dog kisses. “Oh, I don’t mind,” they say, as your dog washes their face with her tongue.

I am not one of those people. Fortunately, my current dogs aren’t lickers, but we used to have a tricolor cavalier, Darcy, who was nicknamed “the quicker licker-upper.” No amount of trying to train her out of it worked, mainly because other people encouraged it.

Dogs love to lick us for all kinds of reasons. In the wild, a pup licks its mother’s face and lips, stimulating her to regurgitate food for it. And mother dogs, wild and domestic, lick their puppies clean. Some dogs probably enjoy the salty flavor of our skin, while others are intrigued by the tasty scented lotions and creams we rub into it. Licking can be soothing. When dogs intensively lick certain areas, it’s often an attempt at pain relief. Any way you look at it, licking generally has a pleasurable connection for dogs.

And for people. Those who love dog kisses give the following reasons:

-- “It’s just that extra show of affection with your dog.”

-- “Great for my immunity and my soul.”

-- “Bee wakes me every morning with such enthusiastic kisses it makes me laugh.”

Sweet as they are (for those who appreciate them), dog kisses can have some drawbacks. Overly enthusiastic canine kissers can bash heads, break noses, give black eyes and knock people down in their attempts to give smooches.

A study in Japan found that bacteria that cause gum disease are transferrable between dogs and humans -- going both ways.

Your dog may also be kissing you immediately after gulping down garbage, snacking on poop from the cat’s litter box, gnawing on a dead squirrel or licking his own behind. The latter can result in accidental ingestion of parasite eggs or larvae lurking in your dog’s saliva.

And a high concentration of the canine allergen is present in saliva.

Some dogs have jobs that preclude kissing. Therapy dogs must learn not to give kisses, particularly if they visit people with health issues. It’s important to protect not only humans, but also the dogs themselves, who may be at risk of illness if they slurp skin infected with MRSA (methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus) or other body fluids present on skin or clothing.

To lick licking -- if that’s your preference -- try these four training (or retraining) tips:

-- Turn your face away when your dog tries to lick you. But beware: If other family members and friends don’t do the same, your dog will keep on licking.

-- When your dog stops licking, immediately offer praise and a treat. Gradually, you can add a cue such as “no kiss” or “no lick.”

-- Teach an alternative behavior such as a high-five or twirl. Any time your dog tries to kiss, give the cue for the alternative -- “Shake!” or “Spin!” and reward him for that great trick.

-- Teach your dog to give kisses on cue so they can be reserved for people who want them. Therapy dogs can learn not to give kisses when they’re wearing their vest.

The really hard part isn't teaching your dog not to lick, but discouraging other people from letting your dog kiss them. But if you're serious about stopping the licking, say, “Please don’t let her kiss you; she’s in training.” People will ignore you, but you can still try it.

If you fail, put your kissing dog to work raising money for your local animal shelter. Set up a kissing booth at a pet fair, and charge for their licks of love.

In the end, getting a little sugar from a dog you love isn’t the end of the world. Just thoroughly wash your hands and mouth afterward -- and maybe swish with mouthwash to kill any lingering germs.

Q&A

Cat doesn’t

pay water bill

Q: My cat keeps turning on the faucet because she prefers to drink from it instead of her water dish. How can I get her to drink normally?

A: For some cats, that is normal! They prefer running water because they can see (and hear) it better than still water. But before we tackle your problem, first things first: If this is a new behavior, take your cat in for a vet check to make sure the change isn’t related to an underlying illness. If she gets a clean bill of health, the following changes may help.

Many cats prefer high places. The sink may seem like a safer place to fill up her tank than down on the floor, especially if the water bowl is in a heavily trafficked area such as the kitchen, or if she shares it with other pets. Try placing the bowl up high in a less frequented area, maybe on a guest bath counter.

Make sure the bowl isn’t near the litter box. Cats don’t like to eat or drink in the same area where they pee and poop.

If you have multiple pets in your home, provide several water dishes, each in a different area.

Water from the faucet may taste better, especially if you aren’t washing pet bowls daily. Use a nonscented dish soap and rinse thoroughly to make sure there’s no unpleasant residue. And use glass or ceramic bowls instead of plastic, which can retain odors.

Cats who like drinking free-flowing water may enjoy a pet fountain. Providing one could help redirect your cat away from the sink. Place a soft treat on the edge to garner her attention, or ask your veterinarian about flavored additives that could pique her interest.

Reward her any time you see her drinking out of the fountain or bowl. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to askpetconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Business goes

to the dogs

-- When the pandemic hit last year, Judi Townsend of Oakland, California, knew her business of buying and selling mannequins was going to be in trouble. But when she realized how many people were adopting pets to keep them company at home, she pivoted to a new plan: taking pet glamour shots. She already had a photo studio, and she began offering photo packages and do-it-yourself photography lessons on Facebook Live. Now, Furtography Pet Pics is doing very well, she reports to AARP Magazine. Embarking further into the pet world, she also sells fabric dog mannequins for people who want to sew or display clothes for dogs.

-- Would you recognize whether your tortoise is feeling unwell? Like most animals, including humans, a change from normal behavior can signal a health problem. Other signs include eye or nasal discharge, swollen or closed eyelids, increased respiratory effort or open-mouth breathing, decreased appetite and decreased activity, says LaToya Latney, DVM, a reptile and zoo animal specialist at New York City’s Animal Medical Center. In an interview with PopSugar.com, she notes that tortoises should be seen by a veterinarian annually for a checkup as well as when they’re sick.

-- When the Million Cat Challenge started, the goal was to save the lives of 1 million shelter cats. That goal was achieved in 2018, more than a year earlier than expected, and it’s marching on to even greater success. The approximately 1,500 shelters that signed on to the program have now saved 3 million cats, and the future is brighter for other shelter cats. Founders Julie Levy, DVM, and Kate Hurley, DVM, plan to continue the consultation service offered by MCC to help shelters, elected officials and policymakers identify and break down barriers so that cats leave shelters alive, not in body bags. -- Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by “The Dr. Oz Show” veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker, founder of the Fear Free organization and author of many best-selling pet care books, and award-winning journalist Kim Campbell Thornton. Joining them is behavior consultant and lead animal trainer for Fear Free Pets Mikkel Becker. Dr. Becker can be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker. Kim Campbell Thornton is at Facebook.com/KimCampbellThornton and on Twitter at kkcthornton. Mikkel Becker is at Facebook.com/MikkelBecker and on Twitter at MikkelBecker.

Flock dynamics mean some roosters need to find new homes. Rescue organizations can help

By Kim Campbell Thornton

Andrews McMeel Syndication

Recently, a Facebook friend who keeps chickens put out a call for a transport volunteer. I live midway between the pickup and delivery points, so I agreed to help. That’s how I found myself driving a rooster from Oceanside, California, to Long Beach in the cargo area of my Subaru Outback.

Boy found himself in the same position as many roosters: being one too many. He needed a new home where he would be the only rooster. Roosters are territorial, and Boy, an adolescent at 1 year old, was trying to take over the flock from King, an older rooster.

“King stopped crowing, and Boy would make sure he stayed on the perch most of the day,” says Laura Elofson of Escondido, California.

Boy did a good job of keeping the hens safe, but Elofson preferred to keep King since he was older and had been around longer.

“I thought it might be easier, since Boy was young, for him to get a flock of his own and adapt easier than if we tried King with a new flock,” she says.

Families who get chicks are told there’s a 90% chance that they are hens, says Deborah Davidson Harpur, who runs Rescue Roos in Long Beach with her daughter. That means some people are bound to end up with a rooster once in a while.

Many municipalities bar roosters or limit homes to one rooster because of the noise they make. Or, like Elofson, families may end up with competing roosters. And roosters, especially when they hit adolescence, can be jerks -- to put it politely. They may run after people, pecking them or beating at them with their wings (called flogging).

“Those are all good things when you have a free-roaming flock and they need to be protected, but not such a good thing when your small children are petrified of the bird, and especially not a good thing if humans are getting injured,” Harpur says.

Since earlier this year, Rescue Roos has placed 94 birds, mostly roosters. Placing roosters is a matchmaking game, involving promoting the birds on social media or reaching out to other rooster rescues. Giant birds and tiny birds tend to find homes quickly. Known fighters and peckers can take a little longer, Harpur says, but they are often placed with people who want good guardians for their hens.

“Usually, our adopters are families who have rural property,” Harpur says. “Most often they want either a specific breed for their hens for breeding purposes, or they want flock protection from aerial predators. The other most popular reason is that they just enjoy roosters and fell for that particular little face.”

Harpur makes sure roosters are going to friendly homes only. If you’re rehoming a bird yourself, ask interested parties if they are providing a pet home and if the people taking the bird are keeping him or will be trading him. You don’t want to run the risk that he’ll end up in a fighting situation or as someone’s meal. An internet search can help you find a rooster rescue group in your area or give you tips on placement.

To avoid having to place a rooster, get chicks that are sex-link birds, which are bred so males and females can be identified at hatch. Chicks sold as “straight run” have not been sexed.

Boy, with Harpur for now, is flirting with hens through the fence. If he stays long enough to meet a one-month quarantine, he’ll get some lady friends to keep him occupied, but Harpur says most birds are placed in less than two weeks.

At Elofson’s home, King has started crowing again, and the hens are more relaxed now that they’re free of the tension between the two roosters.

“I’m thankful for Rescue Roos for helping us find a new home for Boy,” Elofson says. “Many roosters aren’t that fortunate.”

Q&A

Why does dog

scratch a lot?

Q: My dog seems to be scratching himself a lot. Does he have dry skin? Should I add oil to his food?

A: Dogs who scratch may have fleas or allergies to pollen or other inhalants. Sometimes they have food allergies. Rather than adding oil to your dog’s food, you should take him to your veterinarian to get a definite diagnosis and effective treatment for whatever is causing the itchiness.

If it’s fleas, your veterinarian can recommend an appropriate preventive product based on your dog’s lifestyle. For instance, if your dog likes to swim or is bathed frequently, an oral preventive is a better choice than a topical.

For inhalant allergies, medications are available to help relieve itching while you and your veterinarian work together to figure out what might be causing the allergy. It could be seasonal pollens and molds, or something in your household such as dust mites or a new detergent or brand of dryer sheets.

When a food allergy is suspected, your veterinarian may recommend a feeding trial to pinpoint the problem ingredient. Usually that involves feeding a novel protein -- one your dog has never eaten before -- for a certain period. Then previous ingredients are added back in, one at a time, to see what is causing the problem.

Simply adding oil isn’t really a fix unless there’s a dietary deficiency that is accidentally addressed by the addition. If you’re feeding a complete and balanced food, you shouldn’t have to add anything to a dog’s diet unless your veterinarian has recommended supplements such as omega-3 oils and glucosamine for a condition such as arthritis, for instance.

The takeaway? “Itchy” is a symptom, not a disease, and it’s a symptom common to more than one problem. Seek your veterinarian’s advice to solve it in a way that will best help your dog. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to askpetconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Xylitol Poisoning

Cases Rise in Pets

-- Xylitol, a lower-calorie sugar substitute, is used to sweeten everything from chocolate and other candy to peanut butter and toothpaste. That’s great news for people, but not for pets. According to veterinary toxicology experts at Pet Poison Helpline, this increase in products containing xylitol has resulted in a corresponding increase in the number of xylitol-related pet poisoning cases. Between 2015 and 2020, calls regarding xylitol poisoning increased 108%. “Xylitol consumption by pets, particularly dogs, can be extremely toxic and potentially deadly. The most common effect of xylitol poisoning in dogs is a precipitous drop in blood sugar, which can lead to loss of consciousness and seizures. In high enough doses, liver failure can begin within a few hours or days,” said Dr. Ahna Brutlag, a board-certified veterinary toxicologist at Pet Poison Helpline. If your pet ingests anything containing xylitol, get him to a veterinary hospital right away.

-- Cat lovers will enjoy the book “Let’s Talk About Cats,” by U.K. cat expert Anita Kelsey, who shares her own knowledge of and experiences with cats, as well as advice gathered from interviews with other experts on felines domestic and wild: They include Jackson Galaxy, on what it means to bond with a cat; David Teie, who has composed research-driven music for cats; and Dr. Susanne Schotz, a linguistics expert who has studied feline vocalizations and human-cat communications. In 16 chapters, she addresses such topics as feline play, scratching behavior, finding a lost cat, grief, training, nutrition, environment, touch, therapy work and old age.

-- The American hairless terrier, a small and charming dog, is an offshoot of the rat terrier. Besides hairless, he also comes in a coated variety. He loves people and is playful and alert, but beware: He can be a barker. -- Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by “The Dr. Oz Show” veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker, founder of the Fear Free organization and author of many best-selling pet care books, and award-winning journalist Kim Campbell Thornton. Joining them is behavior consultant and lead animal trainer for Fear Free Pets Mikkel Becker. Dr. Becker can be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker. Kim Campbell Thornton is at Facebook.com/KimCampbellThornton and on Twitter at kkcthornton. Mikkel Becker is at Facebook.com/MikkelBecker and on Twitter at MikkelBecker.

Rotate a variety of toys for your bird -- and be prepared to replace them often

By Kim Campbell Thornton

Andrews McMeel Syndication

Parrots are incredibly smart, and for anyone who doubts this, we point to the late Alex, Dr. Irene Pepperberg's well-known African grey, who showed his intelligence by matching words to objects. Parrots are anything but "bird brains."

And yet, we too often see these brilliant beings kept as little more than decorative objects, prized for their plumage and locked in cages that are too small, no matter how large. Is it any wonder so many pet birds die young or rip out their own feathers in frustration?

Toys are essential to maintaining the physical and mental well-being of parrots large and small. Playthings help keep pet birds fit while fighting the boredom that can contribute to behavioral problems, such as feather-picking.

Although you can buy toys by major manufacturers from the big chain stores, it's also nice to choose from the variety of playthings lovingly made by a cottage industry of bird lovers and available from independent bird shops, through catalogs and on the internet.

Some basic rules apply when shopping for toys to ensure they are suitable and safe for your bird. Look for the following when choosing bird toys:

-- Materials: Toys are subject to your bird's healthy urge to destroy, which means safe components are a must. Wood, rawhide, plastic or stainless steel chain, rope, cloth and hard plastic are among the more popular materials that make up safe toys. Choose toys that break down into pieces that can't be swallowed. An exception: Toys made to hold food items, such as dried corncobs or fruit chunks. With these, eating is a large part of the fun.

-- Construction: Challenging toys, the best choice for busy birds, feature pieces combined in ways that make it hard for the birds to pull the whole product apart -- but not too hard. Indestructible toys are not appropriate for most birds, because the time and energy used to rip apart the gadget is part of the reason toys fill such a need.

-- Size: Little toys for little birds, big toys for big birds. A big bird can catch and lose a toe in a toy made for a smaller bird, and small birds can get their heads trapped in toys made for their larger relatives.

Some birds are apprehensive of new toys. If yours is one of them, set the toy outside the cage (but within eye range) for a day or two, and then put it on the floor of the cage for another day or two. Once your bird starts to play with the toy, you can go ahead and attach it to the cage.

Don't overwhelm your pet with toys. Instead, keep two or three in the cage, and rotate new ones in regularly.

Shopping for bird toys can be fun, but the costs do add up, especially if you have one of those gleefully destructive parrots. With some creativity, you can make your money go further by complementing store-bought bird toys with alternatives.

The cardboard cores of toilet paper and paper towel rolls are perfect for shredding, especially for smaller birds. Other cheapies include ballpoint pens with the ink tube removed, pingpong balls, old plastic measuring cups and spoons, and plastic bottle tops. Toothbrushes are another bargain toy -- sturdy and colorful. The hard plastic keys on a ring sold for human babies are also a budget-wise buy that birds love. (Wash in hot soap and water, rinse well and air dry before offering such items to your bird.) And magazines are great for shredding.

Keep your eyes and mind open for playthings your bird can enjoy. You may be surprised by the possibilities!

Q&A

Preparation is key

when flying with pets

Q: After the recent case of Muji, a cat who escaped from her owner at a TSA checkpoint in a New York City airport and was missing for 11 days, could you let readers know about the risk of losing a pet in the airport? I discovered this the hard way myself with a cat who hates to be held. People may not realize that if they take a pet in a carry-on bag, they’ll have to take the pet out of the carrier and hold her while the carrier goes through screening. Pets should wear a harness and leash the entire time to prevent or reduce the risk of escape.

A: You're absolutely right. I've flown with a dog in the cabin several times with no problems whatsoever, but any pet can become anxious or nervous in that situation, and a cat in full flight-or-fight mode can create a dangerous scene. That's why your suggestion is important: Make sure you have a firm grasp of harness and leash before removing the animal from the carrier at the airport screening station.

I’d also like to address one myth about flying with pets that just won't go away: the assumption that pets need to be routinely tranquilized for flights. Not only is this not true, it's also dangerous. Tranquilizing limits the ability of their bodies to function normally, and they need all that ability to cope with the stress of flight.

The default mode for pet air travel should be no tranquilizers, although there are exceptions, so a preflight talk with the veterinarian is a must. (You'll need to take your pet to the veterinarian for a preflight health certificate anyway.)

With all precautions in place, air travel with pets should go smoothly -- and it usually does. -- Kim Campbell Thornton

Do you have a pet question? Send it to askpetconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Moving with a cat?

Limit his options

If you’ve ever moved from one home to another, you know stressful it can be -- for you and your animals! Cats can be especially nervous when you move into a new house because they are highly territorial.

The best way to help your cat relax is to confine him before and after moving day in a "safe room" outfitted with food, water, a litter box, a scratching post, a bed and toys. Put a “do not disturb” sign on the door.

Confining your cat not only reduces his stress, but also prevents him from slipping out, which is a danger at both the old home and the new. Your cat could easily become scared, take off and get lost.

Your cat should be confined in his safe room the day before packing begins, moved to his new home in a carrier, and then confined again in his new safe room until the moving is over, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled.

After you arrive at your new home, don't pull your cat out of his carrier. Instead, put the carrier in his safe room, open the carrier door, and let him come out into the room when he wants to. After he's a little calmer, you can coax him out with some fresh food or treats if you want. But don't rush him and don't drag him out, or you may be bitten or scratched. Trying to force a scared and stressed-out cat to do anything he doesn't want to do is hazardous to your health.

When you have the rest of the house settled, open the door to the safe room and let your cat explore his new home, on his terms. You can find more tips on moving with cats at fearfreehappyhomes.com. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by “The Dr. Oz Show” veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker, founder of the Fear Free organization and author of many best-selling pet care books, and award-winning journalist Kim Campbell Thornton. Joining them is behavior consultant and lead animal trainer for Fear Free Pets Mikkel Becker. Dr. Becker can be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker. Kim Campbell Thornton is at Facebook.com/KimCampbellThornton and on Twitter at kkcthornton. Mikkel Becker is at Facebook.com/MikkelBecker and on Twitter at MikkelBecker.